Gray hair, it seems, is fashionable. Last month, at the launch of a line of purses, top Kate Moss appeared with white strands mixed with the blonde. Other celebrities, such as actress Jamie Lee Curtis and model Kristen McMenamy, have taken on almost total white. In Europe, it is normal to find people who have given up the doldrums and have beautiful gray hair.
Around here, graying is still associated with old age and loss of vitality, especially in women. In the country dyeing champion -30% of 13- and 14-year-olds already use some type of coloring- the pressure to hide white wires is great.
“The woman has to have a lot of personality and be sure of herself to be able to use the graying,” says Visagist Philip Hallawell, author of the book “Integrated Visagism” (Senac).
And if the idea is not to look like a grandmother, the cut ends up being even more important than the color. “It’s possible to take on a fashion image with gray hair. It all depends on the cut: sloping lines are more dynamic, straight lines are a force image,” says Hallawell. Keeping the cut on day is also important to avoid sloppy appearance.
But anyone who thinks white can not work is wrong. “The white thread is an old thread that has lost its basic components,” says cosmetologist Sonia Corazza, author of the book “Younger Every Day” (ed. Prestige).
The lack of melanin results in less protected wires, which can become rough or opaque with ease. “The thread is more susceptible to aggression caused by the use of hair, hair and chemicals,” says Ricardo Romiti, coordinator of the Trichology Outpatient Clinic of the Institute of Hair of the Hospital das Clínicas of São Paulo.
The shampoo should be smooth and rich in amino acids. “Anti-aging gives better conditioning,” says Corazza.
To maintain the silver tone and to remove the yellowish that can be formed by the sun exposure and the accumulation of pollution, the products specific for this type of hair, generally of purplish color are indicated. “These shampoos work like an optical diffuser, disguising the yellowish, but if the wire is too porous, it can absorb too much of those dyes and turn purple.”
Good shampoos combine both. Products with sunscreen are also indicated, but only for those who expose themselves to the sun frequently.
If it is already difficult to gradually assume the whites, more complicated is the transition of those who are accustomed to dye with permanent products. One tip of Celso Kamura’s hairdresser, from São Paulo, is to let the root grow in natural color and make fine, clear strands of the rest of the hair.
Thus, the root is “disguised.” “Changing the permanent color for a temporary one does not work, because the toners always leave some residue on the wires,” says Kamura.
Myths and Truths
Stress Bleaches Hair – MYTH
The appearance of whites depends on genetic predisposition and is considered normal from the age of 20 years. The only known external factor is a disease called peeling, which causes yarn to fall and subsequent bleaching. Some studies also indicate that cigarettes can anticipate the appearance of whites, but this has not yet been proven
The white thread is different from the others – TRUTH
The aged follicle produces a wire with altered geometry, which can be smoother
Blacks take longer to turn gray – TRUE
Asians also turn gray later. But, on average, 50% of 50-year-olds have half the white wires
Source: Folha de S. Paulo